Das Schneeweiß | Das beste Restaurant im Kiez

Schneeweiß Restaurant Friedrichshain

Peinlich, peinlich … da wohne ich schon so lange in Friedrichshain und war dennoch noch nie im Restaurant Schneeweiß. Dabei wird der Szene-Laden doch seit Langem von allen Seiten abgefeiert: Die einen schreiben, es sei „längst eine Institution“, andere rechnen das Schneeweiß zu den Klassikern unter den Friedrichshainer Restaurants, eine gute Freundin wiederum träumt von dem Kalbsfilet; nur ich habe es dieser Tage endlich einmal geschafft, in dem wahrlich schneeweißen Restaurant einzukehren; um mich bekehren zu lassen: nämlich darüber, dass meine geliebte Alpen-Küche Haute Cuisine sein kann. 

Hauen wir doch einmal in die Klischee-Kerbe: Alpine Küche, das steht für Schnitzel und  Käsespätzle, für Kalorien, Kohlenhydrate und Fett, für Attribute wie deftig, herzhaft, schwer. Und um Missverständnisse vorzubeugen: Ich liebe jede einzelne Bedeutung der aufgezählten Wörter. Dennoch trifft nicht jeder Begriff tatsächlich auf alpine Küche zu. Das beweist Geschäftsführer und gleichzeitig Chefkoch vom Restaurant Schneeweiß Marcel Singer mit seinen Kreationen eindrucksvoll. Der gebürtige Friedrichshainer reiste, ebenso wie Geschäftspartner Kevin Elias, nach seiner Ausbildung durch Europa, arbeitete viele Jahre in Dänemark als Küchendirektor. Die internationalen und vor allem zeitgenössischen Einflüsse, schmeckt man.

Wahrlich: Da gibt es neben den Klassikern wie Schnitzel mit lauwarmen Kartoffelsalat (das beste, das ich alpin-affine Liebhaberin vom Tachinger See in Oberbayern jemals gegessen habe!), auch einzigartige Kombinationen: Schweinebauch trifft auf Fischrogen und Jakobsmuscheln oder Ochsenbäckchen auf Pak Choi. Das mag für den einen oder anderen sonderbar klingen, schmeckt aber sagenhaft gut.

Die Szene ist dem Schneeweiß freundschaftlich verbunden

Schneeweiß Restaurant Friedrichshain

 

Es ist nicht nur das Essen, nicht nur das Interieur, dass den Besuch im Schneeweiß absolut empfehlenswert mach. Mindestens genauso cool, wie die konsequent weiße Einrichtung, sind die Mitarbeiter. Das hat sich in den letzten fünf Jahren gefunden, erzählt Marcel: „Da stimmt auch die charakterliche Mischung. Jeder übernimmt hier Verantwortung. Die meisten sind dem Schneeweiß irgendwie freundschaftlich verbunden: Mein bester Kumpel ist mein Stellvertreter!“

Freundschaftlich verbunden. Das sind auch viele Stammgäste, die im Schneeweiß einkehren. Einige kommen aus dem Adlon, manche sogar ein Mal im Jahr aus Australien, erzählt Marcel stolz. Und auch „die Leute vom Watergate oder Berghain kommen regelmäßig hier her.“ Unter ihnen: Oliver Koletzki, ein Freund des Hauses. Die Szene Friedrichshains; sie ist im Schneeweiß vertreten. Und dennoch: „Wir wollen, dass sich hier jeder wohl fühlt: Der Punk, der Geschäftsmann, die Oma“, betont Marcel.

Eine kulinarische Insel

Schneeweiß Restaurant Friedrichshain

„Ich glaube Friedrichshain braucht so ein Restaurant“, sagt Marcel ohne überheblich zu klingen. Wie wahr – denn zwischen den Burgerläden und Asiaten ist das Schneeweiß das, wie es sich selbst deklariert: Eine „kulinarische Insel“. Und der Erfolg gibt Marcel und Kevin Recht. Nicht nur, dass das Schneeweiß einen eigenen Weinladen in der Niederbarnimstraße betreibt, das Team ist auch für die Kantine im Funkhaus in Treptow-Köpenick zuständig. Daraus entsteht im Sommer 2016 sogar ein eigenes Retaurant, das kulinarisch zwar an das Schneeweiß anlehnt, aber neu konzipiert wird. So bekommt auch Oberschöneweide schon bald eine „kulinarische Insel“

Das Schneeweiß vergisst man nicht so schnell

Schneeweiß Restaurant Friedrichshain

Natürlich gäbe es Leute, denen das Schneeweiß nicht gefällt, erzählt mir Marcel (für mich nahezu unvorstellbar). Aber die meisten kämen wieder. Und ohnehin kann Marcel gelassen bleiben: „Wir brauchen uns nicht zu beschweren: Das Schneeweiß läuft, wie es ist – und zwar gut. Ich glaube, wer einmal hier war, vergisst uns nicht so schnell.“

Alle Fotos: © Friederike Hintze


Friederike HintzeFriederike Hintze, oder lieber Frieda, gründete gemeinsam mit Marie von der Heydt den Blog Louise et Hélène. Seit vielen Jahren arbeitet sie als freie Journalistin und Bloggerin im Lifestyle-Bereich. Frieda liebt guten Wein und gute Bücher,  ist am Liebsten unter Freunden oder an der Küste – oder beides – und geht gerne Laufen. Wenn sie für sich ist, guckt sie mehr oder minder heimlich Unter Uns. Und zwar seit der ersten Folge.

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